Freshwater carp simmered in red wine with lardons, onions, and mushrooms—a rustic, wine-dark river dish once favored in Burgundy, Alsace, and country inns throughout France.
FR / EN
Carpe à la matelote au vin rouge / Carp in Red Wine Matelote
Regional Style
Burgundy & Alsace / Cuisine Paysanne & Auberge Tradition
Servings
Serves Four
Ingredients
- 1 whole carp (1.5–2 kg), cleaned and cut into thick slices
- 500 ml red wine (Pinot Noir, Côtes-du-Rhône, or Gamay)
- 150 ml fish stock or water
- 100 g lardons (or smoked bacon, diced)
- 12 pearl onions or one large onion, chopped
- 150 g small mushrooms, cleaned
- 1 tablespoon flour
- 30 g butter
- 1 tablespoon oil
- Salt and pepper
- 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley stems)
- 2–3 slices toasted bread or croutons (optional, for serving)
1 tablespoon is circa 15 ml, and a teaspoon is circa 5 ml
Preparation Method
Clean and slice the carp into thick steaks, leaving the skin and bones intact. Pat dry and lightly salt. Set aside while preparing the garniture.
In a heavy casserole, heat the oil and butter. Sauté the lardons until golden brown, then add the onions and cook gently until they are soft and translucent. Add the mushrooms and sauté for a few minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture and stir until it is well-coated.
Pour in the red wine and stock. Add the bouquet garni and bring to a gentle simmer. Nestle the carp slices in the cover and simmer gently (without boiling) for 20–25 minutes, or until the fish is just tender.
Carefully remove the fish and garnish with a slotted spoon. Discard the bouquet garni. Reduce the sauce slightly, if needed, and strain for a refined finish. Adjust seasoning with salt and black pepper.
Return the fish and garniture to the sauce to rewarm briefly before serving.
Serving Suggestions & Garnishes
Serve in deep, warmed plates with sauce spooned generously over the fish and garnish. Offer with boiled potatoes, buttered noodles, or crisp croutons rubbed with garlic. A sprinkle of parsley adds brightness.
Tips, Tricks, or Variations
Carp should be ultra-fresh and ideally purged in clean water before cooking. The matelote may also be made with pike, perch, or eel, depending on the region. In Burgundy, a spoonful of blood was traditionally stirred into the sauce while it was still warm to thicken it; however, this practice is now rarely observed.
For extra depth, reduce the wine before poaching and finish the sauce with a spoonful of butter or crème de cassis.
Historical & Cultural Context
Carpe à la matelote has deep roots in French river cuisine, particularly in Burgundy, Alsace, and along the Loire and Saône rivers. The term matelote (from matelot, meaning sailor) originally referred to a stewed fish dish in wine, a method for fishermen and innkeepers to cook the catch of the day using local vintages, enhanced with onions, bacon, and mushrooms.
This dish became a celebration meal in rural regions—served at weddings, markets, and Sunday tables. By the 19th century, matelotes had been refined into structured preparations, appearing in cookbooks, railway dining cars, and the emerging cuisine bourgeoise. The recipe embodies this blend of rustic origins and formal refinement, preserving the earthiness while enhancing the sauce.
Though now rarely seen outside regional tables, carpe à la matelote remains a living symbol of France’s inland waterways, local wines, and the quiet sophistication of countryside gastronomy.
