A thick, velvety green purée made from dried split peas, gently simmered with aromatics and enriched with butter—purée de pois cassés was once a winter staple across France, hearty enough for farm kitchens yet refined sufficient for elegant roasts.
FR / EN
Purée de pois cassés / Split Pea Purée
Regional Style
Cuisine Paysanne / Rustic Bourgeois Traditions
Servings
Serves Four
Ingredients
- 250 g dried green split peas
- 1 small onion, peeled and halved
- 1 small carrot, peeled and chopped
- 1 clove garlic, peeled (optional)
- Bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay leaf)
- Salt, to taste
- Black pepper or nutmeg (optional)
- 30 g butter
- Optional: 1 tablespoon cream or duck fat
One tablespoon is approximately 15 milliliters (ml), and a teaspoon is approximately 5 milliliters (ml).
Preparation Method
Prepare and Simmer the Peas
Rinse the split peas in cold water. In a large pot, combine the peas with 1 liter of cold water, the onion, carrot, garlic (if using), and bouquet garni. Bring slowly to a simmer. Skim any foam.
Simmer gently for 1 to 1.5 hours, uncovered, until the peas are completely soft and falling apart. Stir occasionally and add hot water if necessary to keep them just covered.
Strain and Purée
Remove the bouquet garni. Pass the cooked peas and vegetables through a fine sieve, food mill, or tamis to create a smooth purée. If needed, thin with some reserved cooking liquid.
Enrich and Season
Return the purée to the pan. Stir in the butter and season to taste with salt and a pinch of pepper or nutmeg. For a richer purée, add a spoonful of cream or duck fat just before serving.
Serving Suggestions & Garnishes
Traditionally served with roast pork, smoked sausage, salted goose, or mutton. Also served as a bed for confit, or with grilled country bread rubbed with garlic. Garnish with a few fried croutons or a swirl of cream for formal service.
Tips, Tricks, or Variations
Peas may be soaked overnight to reduce cooking time, though this is not essential. In rural variants, a ham bone or salted pork rind may be simmered in the pot for added flavor. For extra refinement, strain the purée again before service.
Historical & Cultural Context
Split peas were a cornerstone of rural French cooking from the Middle Ages through the 19th century, especially in the Massif Central, Burgundy, and the Loire Valley. Pois cassés were shelf-stable, nourishing, and affordable, making them a daily staple in regions with limited winter vegetables.
By the 18th century, purée de pois cassés had begun to appear in the menus of the bourgeoisie and the military, where it was refined through straining, seasoning, and garnish. During the 19th century, it was often served in Parisian households as a side dish for meats, its earthy flavor pairing well with roast game or pork.
In the current recipe, the dish is presented not as a humble soup, but as a carefully sieved purée de légume, aligning it with the cuisine ménagère and the refined side of peasant cooking.
Today, this purée remains a comforting and quietly noble dish, preserving centuries of culinary thrift and technique.
