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Friday, August 29, 2025

Riz au gras à la mode de Lorraine

A traditional rice pilaf from Lorraine, gently cooked in rich stock and aromatic vegetables is a savory, elegant, and deeply rooted in French home cuisine.

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A richly flavored rice dish gently cooked in meat broth, garnished with aromatic vegetables, and sometimes enriched with bits of veal or poultry, this classic from Lorraine is the French answer to the pilaf dish, a comforting and refined dish.

FR / EN

Riz au gras à la mode de Lorraine / Lorraine-Style Savory Rice in Stock

Regional Style

Lorraine / Cuisine Bourgeoise

Servings

Serves Four

Ingredients

  • 250 g long-grain white rice (non-parboiled)
  • 40 g butter or clarified fat
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1 small carrot, diced
  • 1 small stalk of celery or leek (optional), chopped
  • 500 ml veal or poultry stock (warm)
  • 50 g cooked veal or poultry meat (optional), finely diced
  • Salt, to taste
  • White pepper, optional

One tablespoon is approximately 15 ml, and a teaspoon is approximately 5 ml.

Preparation Method

Prepare the Base Aromatics
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan or braising pan, melt the butter gently. Add the chopped onion, carrot, and celery (if using). Sweat gently over low heat until translucent and soft—do not brown.

Add the Rice and Coat in Fat
Stir in the rice and cook over low heat for several minutes, stirring constantly, until each grain is well coated with butter and starts to become pearly and slightly toasted.

Deglaze with Broth
Pour in the warm stock in one addition. Stir gently and season lightly with salt and a pinch of white pepper. Bring just to a simmer.

Cook Gently and Cover
Reduce the heat to low. Cover tightly and cook undisturbed for 16 to 18 minutes, until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Do not stir during this time.

Finish with Meat (Optional)
If using cooked veal or poultry, stir it into the rice just before serving and allow it to warm through. Adjust seasoning as needed.

Rest Before Serving
Remove from heat and let rest, covered, for 5 minutes before fluffing with a fork.

Serving Suggestions & Garnishes

Serve as a side dish for roast meats, poultry, or fricassée. It may also be presented in a moulded ring (couronne de riz) filled with sautéed mushrooms or braised offal in sauce. Garnish with a sprinkle of chopped parsley.

Tips, Tricks, or Variations

The rice can be prepared in a lidded cocotte or in the oven for even cooking. A spoonful of tomato purée may be added to the broth for a pink hue. For a richer version, finish with a knob of butter before resting.

Historical & Cultural Context

“Riz au gras” was a staple in the bourgeois kitchens of eastern France, particularly in Lorraine and Alsace, where rice, once a rare and costly import, was reserved for special occasions, such as holidays, religious feasts, and family gatherings. The dish evolved from a humble meat-stretched pilaf into a refined accompaniment served with roast poultry or veal.

By the late 18th century, rice had found its way into provincial French households, and by the early 19th century, riz au gras was codified in manuals like Le Cuisinier Royal and later L’Art du Bien Manger (early 1900s), where it appears in its gentler, butter-enriched form.

Though its name might suggest richness, the term “gras” refers not to excess fat, but to cooking rice in meat stock—a way to enrich flavor even when the dish itself remains simple. It reflects the French answer to pilaf, adapted for domestic kitchens and elevated in the dining rooms of middle-class France.

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